Is she right?

My friend works in a pc hardware store and they recently had a really rich customer.

image credit to 3807272473 on Rednote

Was fired last year from my job due to a work mistake causing disc herniation had to sell everything i owned and use my 12 year old gaming pc.

Finally got a job again and started working overtime to save up for a new pc, today i was out buying butter when i checked the "Demo section" in the electronics saw something say HP and a price of 180USD thought it was a printer but never seen a HP Omen printer before.
Picked it up just to realise it was a gaming pc... Rushed to the checkout with my butter and gaming pc in hand, they told me it was a pricing error and the original price was 2800USD but an employee must have made a mistype but since it was in the store they would honor the price and sell it to me.

Finally! Joining the RTX Club.
Upgrading from a i7 6800K and GTX 1060. (And this will ofcoure be donated to a family with no computer)

A family friend didn’t want to take the time to repair this monitor and said I could have it if I could fix it. The longest and most painful part was just opening the back up. After that I desoldered a single resistor and it’s good as new. I don’t understand why Samsung keeps putting these resistors in; I’ve seen so many videos and different variations of ultrawides with the exact same issue and fix.

Edit: I've seen quite a few people asking how I did this. The fixes are out there, but they can be a little tricky to find.

This video shows how to open the monitor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfMW-LtxnEs

These videos show the actual repair that needs to be done:
https://youtu.be/w69VoYzMNV0?t=746
https://youtu.be/1nq2boarFIM?t=295
https://youtu.be/AAZ9UlcAoNA?t=184 (The resistors are on a different board in this video; look for groups of 3 resistors to help locate if you can't find them on the board shown in the other video)

As you can see, there are several variations of these boards. I noticed that there are always 3 resistors close together, so that might help give you a clue where to find yours. Also, I saw quite a few variations which had them off in that little cut out area, which also might help you find them.

The cleanest way to remove the resistor is by putting a little dab of flux on the component and then hitting it with a heat gun designed for desoldering SMD components. My next choice would be using a soldering iron, but you would have to be very precise and make sure not to remove the other two resistors. If you have no soldering tools, you can use a pair of fine tweezers or side cutters to snap the component off the board. It's nasty, but it'll work in a pinch.

Hope this helps!

build in progress

Is she right?

With Ram going through the roof and GPUs having an uncertain future with VRam I decided to just pull the trigger, in case things are much worse this time next year. Worth it in your opinion?

I hope you like this battlestation.

Got this 2nd hand, user didn't use it that much. All is in really good condition. 2026 project !

I saw someone else had already linked a screen shot from the full video but I wanted to share some HD shots of my Custom Wood Noctua PC.

every day

Between the 5090 and my loop, my office was getting roasted even with a dual-hose AC. Room felt like a sauna every time I gamed. So I built a setup to vent all the PC exhaust outside instead of just blowing it around like a fart in a closet.

Made a shroud over my 360mm top rad

Hooked up two high-speed fans to a duct blowing straight out the window

Turned the rear case fan into a second exhaust, added another fan + duct

Built a clean-looking wood insert so I didn’t have janky plastic flaps hanging out the window

Tied it all together so both ducts push heat outside while the dual-hose AC keeps the room cold

I lost my dog I lost my community Lost my sanity Lost my dignity LOST MY TECH I sold my Ps5 for responsibility Sold my 2060 build Had nothing for a while. My wife bought me a VR and had to return it the next day because of sudden financial hardship. My wife sold her own tech I gave her my phone I gave and gave and GAVE

And it felt like PC would take 2 years to even FATHOM.

Here’s the build that took me 10 hours. I was so terrified and inexperienced, I had to redo everything over and over. I built it with the Cooler installed first. Very tough.

But I did it. I understand what building a PC is like now. And in 2 weeks? RTX 5070Ti comes in.

We did it. We went from homeless to thriving within a year.

What she said: “please mount (child)’s computer to the wall to free up desk space.”

What I heard: CoMpUtEr Go On WaLL.

What she meant: mount MONITOR to wall.

They are both mad now.

I thought it was neat - albeit odd. I got that external power button, some long cables coming, it will be cleannnnn.

😬😅🤷🏻‍♂️

(I know it is leaning, it is the center post that is leaning bc it swivels, not the mount itself, I have to add a bolster - it is secure enough as-is, but will be fixed tomorrow.)

Meet Mr CLEAN. What better way for a 2026 fresh start than a new, super clean build? :P

As usual, I worked really hard to film and edit a short timelapse video with beautiful slow panning shots (it's half the fun for me!). Here is the link, please watch it if you like the build, the footage is way better than the pictures :) https://youtu.be/QBKLe8VZjaY

With hardware getting scarcer and more expensive, I wasn't sure to make a new build for the RTX 50 like I usually do every generation but when I saw the potential of the Aorus Stealth line + the Modding Cafe INSANE CPU block, I had to do it! The build really sets itself apart and look more modern by being so clean. Love it! Now we need a GPU block with hided tubes for the ultimate fully watercooled stealth build!

The hardest part of this build was... getting the GPU... it seems the stealth ice was only released in Europe in low quantity so I had to import it.

The second memory kit is the cheapest I could find to use as filler sticks for a better look (it was bought BEFORE the insane RAM price hike). 2x24GB@8000MHz (Hynix M-die) is plenty enough and more performant than using 4 sticks.

The star of the show is really the CPU block, it's the whole point of the build. The guy from modding cafe is really amazing and was super helpful.

Parts list :
AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
GIGABYTE X870 AORUS STEALTH ICE
TEAMGROUP T-Force XTREEM DDR5 Ram 48GB (2x24GB) 8000MHz
TEAMGROUP T-Force XTREEM DDR5 Ram 32GB (2x16GB) 7200MHz (fillers, bought BEFORE the price hikes LOL)
WD Black SN8100 4TB
WD Black SN8100 2TB
GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce RTX 5090 STEALTH ICE
Phanteks Evolv X2
Glarks White Cutting Board Rubber Feet Set
NZXT C1200 Gold ATX 3.1

Watercooling parts :
Stealth Tubing Waterblock by ModdingCafe
Corsair RS120 triple pack + single
Corsair RS120-R ARGB 120mm PWM ARGB Reverse Fans triple pack
Alphacool HPE-30 Full Copper 360mm Radiator
Alphacool Eiszapfen 13/10mm screw-on nozzle G1/4
Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector rotatable G1/4 AG to G1/4 IG
Alphacool VPP Apex Pump
Alphacool Eisdecke D5 Aufsatz - Acryl G1/4 - (VPP755/VPP655/TPP644/MCP655) V.3
Alphacool Apex Liquid ECO 1000ml clear
EK-Loop Soft Tube 10/13mm 3m - Clear

Happy new year and feel free to ask questions!

Glerox

So I decided to build a new PC...

With the help of my friend, we built this crazy rig and I wanted to share some pictures with you guys — including some from the work-in-progress phase

The specs are as following:

• ROG Crosshair X87E Hero BTF
• ASUS ROG Astral GeForce RTX 5090 BTF OC
• AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D
• G.Skill Trident Z5, 4x 32GB DDR5 6000MHz CL28
• Samsung 990 Pro M.2 4TB, 2x
• Seasonic Prime TX-1600 Titanium
• Phanteks NV9 MK2 Big Tower
• be quiet! LIGHT Wings Fans
• Thermal Grizzly Direct-Die Pro
• Custom water cooling loop with parts from Alphacool

I absolutely love love love seeing people’s setups in here and I just “finished” my pink setup and wanted to show it here too! Huge thanks to my boyfriend for building everything for me, love him!!!

Planning different scale for the next.

Just finished installing this machine to work on cancer genomes.

I wanted the customer to have reliability and a low maintenance build, but with plenty of power.

So I thought, why not 4 AIO type liquid cooled 5090s in a Corsair 9000D case? 2 radiators each at the top and front. I get to avoid an open loop, and if a GPU goes down, the rest keep going so they have limited down time.

I didn't go with RTX6000 pro cards, because you can't get them with integrated liquid cooling, and ECC vram doesn't matter in the application that it's being used for. They also cost 3x the price, but aren't 3x the performance.

It's got 128gb of DDR5 ECC ram, and ~12TB of nvme and ~28TB of SSD storage.

The main power supply is a SilverStone 1200W SFX-L PSU in the back that powers the CPU, and 1 GPU, with a second SilverStone 2500W PSU in the front powering the other 3 GPUs and the SSDs.
It's turned on and off with a 24pin Y splitter cable that came with the ASUS Pro WS WRX90E-SAGE SE motherboard.

It's only a 24 core/48 threadripper pro 7000 series, to manage heat, but also CPU wasn't a major bottleneck in the application, it's mostly GPU and disk IO.

Temps were all good during benchmarking. It can max out all the GPUs at 100% doing the kind of work it was built for.

This is not for gaming. It doesn't need SLI or any kind of merged VRAM. The software being used can use the GPUs as a pool and load balance the data across them.

I hadn't seen anyone try to do a water cooling build using this method before, so I was excited to try it.

What do you think? any questions?